Joined: May 7, 2003 Posts: 5 Location: South Florida
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 2:57 pm Post subject: ZEX nitrous install&performance numbers, class#1
OK, lets get started.The kit i use is a ZEX#82021.This is a wet kit meaning at the spray nozzle your spraying nitrous as well as fuel into the intake manifold.Im currently using a "40" nitrous jet, and a"21" fuel jet, which is a 75HP shot of nitrous.I left my ignition timing stock, but did however change the spark plugs 1 heat range colder than stock(gapped at the factory setting of .044) Before i get into performance numbers,and track times, im going to go over a brief overveiw of my installation of the ZEX kit. will even number the exact order of steps i did........
1. unpacked the kit&made sure everything was there,and i went to a local speed shop and filled the bottle(yes,the bottle does come empty, and nitrous costs between $2.50-$3.00 a LB, and the kit comes with the standard 10LB bottle, so your lookin at about $30.00 to fill it.
2.i mounted the bottle in the trunk(i actually placed wood under the carpet so i didnt have to drill through the frame of the car, and the bottle is very sturdy)
3.next, i ran the 4AN line from the bottle, out through a plug under the spare tire,then ran the line on the passenger side using the frame rail as a conduit, the kit comes with tie wraps and i used those towards the back and at the front where i ran the feed line up into the engine bay.
4.i then mounted the ZEX nitrous management unit in the engine bay.i mounted it basically under the air filter of my AEM intake using self drilling&tapping screws provided in the kit.NOTE:the nitrous management unit is a small weather proof box that contains the nitrous and fuel solenoids, and is the brains of the system if you will., from now on i will refer to the nitrous management unit as the NMU.
5.next, i connected the feedline from the bottle to the"nitrous in" on the NMU.
6.after this i disconnected the battery, although you could do that as your first step, i also removed my AEM intake to prepare for the spray nozzle install.
7.The ZEX kit comes with a bulk head fitting,with a locknut, if you elect to install the spray nozzle in the peice of rubber tubing that connects the intake to the throttle body, which i did to avoid drilling a hole through my intake, if you DO drill the intake, you will also need to tap it(the kit comes with a tap as well), make sure and place the spray nozzle before the 90 degree bend in your intake, so its a strait shot to the throttle body, and make sure you have no shavings in the intake or throttle body!, i left the intake out of the engine bay at this time.(with the spray nozzle screwed into the bulkhead fitting.)
8.next i wired the system, the black wire coming off the NMU goes to a good ground,the white wire on the NMU goes to the output voltage wire from the throttle position sensor, i will save you guys the grief and tell you which wire it is.The TPS is in front of the throttle body and attatched to it, its round and has like 4 wires coming off it, the wire you want to crimp onto in white with red line on it, thats the ouput voltage wire, and yes the kit comes with all the wire connectors needed for the job.The 3rd and final wire from the NMU is red and needs to be fed through the firewall into the inside of the car, this red wire attatches to the arming switch(i had to extend the red wire to about twice its length to reach the arming switch,i used solder and electrical tape around the solder connection.There is one more final wire,and that comes from the arming switch, it is fused and needs to be attatched to any 12V accesory(you can go directly to the + of the battery if you desire, but there is plenty of wires under the dash that you can tap into with the T-Tap connector provided, however if you dont feel like going through the wires under the dash,and cutting into them, just go to the battery, if going to the battery the wire will need to be extended, i would use solder, although a butt splice will do the job just fine)
9.o
k, wiring is done, now you have to program the NMU so the nitrous will come on under full throttle,with the arming switch on. to do this you must.
1B.reconnect the battery, and turn the ignition on, dont start the car, just turn the ignition on.
2B.turn the nitrous arming switch to the on position.
3B.go to the NMU and press&release the push button switch., there should be a red light on after this(on the NMU) meaning it is in learn mode, thats what you want.
4B.now go sit in the drivers seat and push the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds, then release.
5B.hop out and look at the NMU, it should be flashing from red,to green to off, that means it learned the voltage curve of the throttle position sensor.
6B.head back to the drivers seat and turn off the nitrous arming switch,then turn it right back on.,now if you look at the NMU it will have a solid green light, meaning its armed and ready to activate at wide open throttle.
7B. to be sure, go to the drivers seat and put the throttle to the floor, and you should hear a clicking sound, that is the solenoids opening, let off the throttle,and depress it one more time you should hear the clicking again, that means the system is programmed and ready.
10.ok, now is the part that sucks , the spark plugs and fuel delivery line your going to have to remove the center section of the intake manifold to gain access to the spark plugs, and also the center cover secured by the allen bolts(i removed the whole upper intake assembly for more room) 3 spark plugs are visable, and 3 are covered by there own little individual coil packs which need to be unbolted as well, and then pull right off., the engine is a strait6 so the plugs are all right in a row front to back, and are 5/8, i used 1 heat range colder than stock autolite's, which can be bought at bennett,napa,or discount auto parts, just tell them the# off your stock plugs and ask for replacements that are 1 heat range colder, DO NOT use platinum plugs, or the stock plugs for that matter, i know autolite plugs sound ghetto, but they work just fine NO PLATINUM!!!!!, gap the autolite's to.044 and install them.
11.Now you gotta remove the fuel rail to drill and tap it for the 90degree fuel fitting provided., start by locating the fuel line coming into the back side of the fuel rail, by the yellow cap over the bolt, just pull the yellow cap right off, and you will see the big nut attatching the fuel line., loosen it slowly, and dont look directly at it, gas might spray out, or dribble a bit from the fuel pressure left in the line, once the fuel line is removed, there are a few bolts (3or4, cant remember) that hold the fuel rail, remove those, and now your ready to pull the fuel rail off the injectors, and out of the car.
12.ok, now that you got the fuel rail out, your going to have to drill and tap it., the spot i recommend is on the top,towards almost the very front of the rail, it is easily identifyable, its stubbed up and about 2 inches long with a shallow predrilled hole in the center, to me it looks like toyota was going to put a schrader valve there but decided not to for some reason, anywayusing a 11/32 drill bit drill your hole right through that shallow hole in the spot i just described(the smaller predrilled hole), do your drilling on a peice of cardboard, there is alot of metal shavings, make sure you drill it strait and keep checking the progress of the depth, you want a nice clear shot inside the fuel rail, but you dont want to overdrill into the bottom side of the rail!, after the hole is drilled, what i did was use a can of carb cleaner and just spray all the openings in the fuel rail, then used compressed air and make sure ALL those little shavings are blown outta there VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!, after that use the supplied 1/8NPT tap, and thread your drilled hole, keep it slow and steady!, after that blow out the rail of any shavings, and install the 90deg fitting(the fitting that came in my kit allready had the red sealant on the threads, if for some reason yours doe
snt get the appropriate sealant and apply it to the threads), i then once again used compressed air to clear out any shavings.
13.ok, you can now fit the fuel rail back on the injectors,bolt it down, and reattatch the fuel line(make sure to reuse the 2 factory washers that were in place before, so you get no leaks)
14.re-assemble the rest of the car in reverse order as described earlier, including the intake.
15.attatch the 3FT 4AN line from the 90deg. fitting in the rail to the fuel inlet on the NMU.
16.now, using the 2FT 3AN hoses attatch each to the NMU
17.obviously the nitrous line goes to the nitrous side of the spray nozzle, at this time place the"40" jet in the nitrous inlet of the spray nozzle and screw on the nitrous line from the NMU
18.now do the same with the fuel line from the NMU and place the "21" jet in the fuel inlet of the spray nozzle and screw the fuel line on.
OK, i know it seemed long, but your done, now go in the car and turn the ignition on(dont start the car yet), and look under the hood at your 90deg fuel fitting in the rail, the fuel line coming into the rail, and the NMU, to make sure there are no leaks., i had no leaks, so i dont see why you guys would unless you drilled crooked or something., now you can start the car, when i did this it idled like crap and stalled a couple times, but after a minute or 2 it was fine, again i checked for leaks, all was good, go to the trunk and open the bottle valve, look at the NMU to make sure no nitrous is leaking, also make sure the spray nozzle is positioned so its spraying strait into the throttle body(i think i mentioned that earlier), close the hood and drive down the road, turn the arming switch on, get the motor up to 3000 rpm or better and drop the hammer!, at this point you will realize that the work was worth it!, if you got a 5speed, your gonna get sideways through 1st and 2nd gear! and get pushed back nicely in the seat i drive an automatic, and even that pulls like hell, i raced a 5.0 with gears,pulleys and exhaust at the track and beat him by 3/10ths! and 2mph!, my car went from running 15.5 best(AEM intake,toyomoto axleback exhaust) and here is my best of 2 passes using the ZEX kit.
R/T...1.237(i focused on my launch,not on cutting a good bulb)
this pass was made on regular yokohama 215 45 17 radials, no slicks or drag radials were used, i launched at about 2400 and started spraying at about 3100, the weather was warm and humid at 82 degrees, and my bottle pressure was at 1150psi, i only had time for 1 pass that nite, if i would of launched a little higher,and started spraying a little earlier i think the car has a high 13 in it at around 100mph, especially with some better outside air, i should also note that the tranny shifts sloppy at best, and i think that hindered my times a bit.i recently got an ESK from TBKO, and am waiting for a teck grounding kit, along with a xerd racepipe, the ESK makes a huge difference in the cars shifting, and in the next week when i got the xerd pipe in place with the grounding kit, im heading to the track, and am expecting 13's on the very first pass.Ok my fingers are tired, so this lesson is over, next lesson will be nitrous neccessities and accessories., so to sum this up: most of the bolts are 10mm, and 8mm, the bottle needs to be mounted securely, and on the passenger side of the trunk is best, with the valve to the front, and the front higher than the rear,so the siphon tube picks up the nitrous under acceleration(one bracket is higher than the other)and have the label on the bottle facing up, that positions the bottle with the siphon tube at the bottom where you want it. the install took me 5 1/2 hours, but could be done quicker, i had to take 2 moderate brakes due to rain.If you feel comfortable doing this install yourself, im more than happy to answer any questions you may have.Class is over for the day
NitrousNick. _________________ 2001 Eshift black on black
5%tint
AEM intake
Toyomoto exhaust
ZEX N2O kit(75HP)
Ordered and on the way:Xerd race pipe,Teck ground kit,TBKO ESK,Lexus Motorsport's seatbelt pads.
Joined: Feb 18, 2003 Posts: 173 Location: new jerome
Posted: Thu May 15, 2003 1:59 am Post subject:
sorry i stoped reasding it about 1/3 of the way down but congrats on getting your NAWS!!! _________________ 02 is300 vizage kit,19IN 5zeign evos,injen intake,hpracing exhaust,xerd headers,altezza badgeing,jdm antenna,20%tint, carbon fiber vis hood,carbon fiber eyelids
comings soon,carbon fiber grill and trunk thanks to lextasy!!!......rest in piece my solar y
Joined: May 7, 2003 Posts: 5 Location: South Florida
Posted: Wed May 28, 2003 11:06 am Post subject:
test _________________ 2001 Eshift black on black
5%tint
AEM intake
Toyomoto exhaust
ZEX N2O kit(75HP)
Ordered and on the way:Xerd race pipe,Teck ground kit,TBKO ESK,Lexus Motorsport's seatbelt pads.
Joined: Apr 11, 2003 Posts: 214 Location: On your girl :-)
Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 2:38 pm Post subject:
Careful guy, there is a price to pay for cheap horse power increases. Mark "2003 IS300" blew his motor last night. Nos is hard on motors, keep an eye on your air fuel meters.
Derek _________________ Garret TO4E Turbo, Garret intercooler, Arm1 controler, Split Second additional injector controler,Apexi N1 exhaust,RPS Clutch system,Maxx IC piping,Greddy blow off valve, Tial wastegate, APEXI SAFC, 18's, greddy profec a boost controler, tein flex coil ov
Joined: Feb 18, 2003 Posts: 2349 Location: Tarzana CA
Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 4:21 pm Post subject:
boosted_IS wrote:
Careful guy, there is a price to pay for cheap horse power increases. Mark "2003 IS300" blew his motor last night. Nos is hard on motors, keep an eye on your air fuel meters.
Joined: Apr 11, 2003 Posts: 214 Location: On your girl :-)
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 1:35 am Post subject:
100 shot of nos, he was not paying attention to the air fuel mixture to see that he was going very lean. Going lean in a 2JZGE is a killer for the motor.
Derek _________________ Garret TO4E Turbo, Garret intercooler, Arm1 controler, Split Second additional injector controler,Apexi N1 exhaust,RPS Clutch system,Maxx IC piping,Greddy blow off valve, Tial wastegate, APEXI SAFC, 18's, greddy profec a boost controler, tein flex coil ov
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You can download files in this forum
Hottest Threads
, the spark plugs and fuel delivery line your going to have to remove the center section of the intake manifold to gain access to the spark plugs, and also the center cover secured by the allen bolts(i removed the whole upper intake assembly for more room) 3 spark plugs are visable, and 3 are covered by there own little individual coil packs which need to be unbolted as well, and then pull right off., the engine is a strait6 so the plugs are all right in a row front to back, and are 5/8, i used 1 heat range colder than stock autolite's, which can be bought at bennett,napa,or discount auto parts, just tell them the# off your stock plugs and ask for replacements that are 1 heat range colder, DO NOT use platinum plugs, or the stock plugs for that matter, i know autolite plugs sound ghetto, but they work just fine NO PLATINUM!!!!!, gap the autolite's to.044 and install them.
i drive an automatic, and even that pulls like hell, i raced a 5.0 with gears,pulleys and exhaust at the track and beat him by 3/10ths! and 2mph!, my car went from running 15.5 best(AEM intake,toyomoto axleback exhaust) and here is my best of 2 passes using the ZEX kit.
